
Beaver was an oasis, a place of "hollyhocks and Sunday school" for Priit Vesilind, who was 6 years old when his family arrived in 1949.
It was just what the Vesilind family needed. They had lived under Nazi rule in Estonia in the early part of World War II, then fled to Poland with baby Priit and his older brother, Arne, to escape the Soviet onslaught. They ended up in the U.S.-occupied part of Germany, living in one room of a German apartment house for four years, waiting for a chance to resettle somewhere.
They were sponsored by a Rochester church and landed in Beaver, a "great big cream puff, a company managers' town in the midst of all the company towns," Mr. Vesilind said. It was a place of "blessed normalcy, which for my parents, was the most important thing."
Mr. Vesilind put roots deep into that fertile soil and grew into a career as an editor, a writer and an occasional photographer for National Geographic magazine. He saw assignments in Greenland, the aboriginal lands in Australia, the Himalayan foothills of Nepal and in a 4.5-mile descent into a Pacific trench in a Russian submersible in search of a sunken Japanese submarine.
He wrote about Zulus in Kenya, Inuit in Alaska, Tahitian boatmen, Amazonian tribes.
And he had an opportunity to retrace his own life cycle, slipping behind the Iron curtain to write about his native Estonia under Soviet control and covering that world's escape to freedom as the Berlin Wall fell in 1989.
Even so, Mr. Vesilind said he laughed when friends in Beaver approached him about putting together a display on his career for the Beaver Area Historical Museum.
"I was skeptical at first," he said. For one, he didn't feel all that important. For another, a writing career makes for a tough museum show. But he had pictures and mementos from his trips. "I thought, well, why not?"
The show, which continues through the end of the month, features magazine covers and numerous photographs, and offers a brief recap of his life and career.
It also includes items such as a Nepalese dagger, an intricately stitched Inuit felt tapestry, an aboriginal bark painting and dolls from native Alaskans and Mexican Zapatistan revolutionaries. There's also a bottle from a Civil War shipwreck and a piece of the Berlin Wall.
Mr. Vesilind said if the show brings any attention to the museum and his hometown, it might help him repay the debt he feels. He said he treasured an opportunity this summer to speak to the Beaver Rotary, standing before many of the town's leaders.
"It was nice to be able to thank them for taking us in, to say, 'Thanks for making us feel like family,'" he said. "We really lived the American dream, and we wouldn't have been able to do it in a lot of other communities."
Mr. Vesilind said he knows many native Estonians who settled in big cities, and he thinks he was better off. "So many of my father's friends felt that they had to stay ethnic Estonians," something they could do in the anonymity of New York or Chicago with other Estonians around them. "It was like they had one foot in America, but they never really put the other foot down. They were sort of living half-lives."
But there was no anonymity for the Vesilinds in Beaver -- their picture was in the paper when they arrived. And there was no Estonian community to run to.
"In Beaver, they had to either accept you or reject you," he said. "And they accepted us."
Even so, Mr. Vesilind said that personally, the highlight of his career was returning to Estonia and telling its story to the Western world. His story was translated into Estonian and circulated secretly through the county, "an incredible thing for a 35-year-old guy."
His efforts earned him the Third Order of the White Cross, presented to him in 2004 by the President of Estonia, which had again become a free nation as the Soviet Union crumbled.
To many others, though, he granted that his finest moment was most likely covering the fall of the Berlin Wall. He, of course, was at the scene, watching the first East Germans flood into West Berlin.
"Being there when the world turns was very moving for me," he said.
But the event also illustrated both the challenge and the opportunity of writing for National Geographic. The wall's fall would be live on television.
"I'm there, and there's Dan Rather in his trench coat," Mr. Vesilind said. It would be in newspapers within hours and in news magazines within days.
But by the time it made National Geographic, which at the time had a leisurely four-month turnaround for stories, readers would be looking for something deeper, something different, something with a more personal perspective.
So Mr. Vesilind grabbed his photographers and headed for the Baltic Coast, then traced the whole length of the border between East Germany and West Germany as it crumbled, watching people reconnect in small towns dotting the landscape.
"By the time I was done, I could say that the two Germanies would become one, something other people couldn't," he said. In the towns, he said, he could see "the people themselves threading each other together, like they were actually reaching out with needles and sewing it back into one."
He remembered one place where the border had hacked the town's brass band in half. "I talked to this guy who hadn't played with the band in 50 years, but he said 'I think I'll take my horn and see if they want to play.'" They did. The Germanies became one again.
Now retired, Mr. Vesilind lives in Manassas, Va., with his wife, Rima. He'll be back in Beaver to collect his artifacts when the show ends, but his legacy will remain.
Mark Miner, a museum trustee, said the museum has obtained original copies of all of Mr. Vesilind's National Geographic stories.
"We have the hard copies, and we will always have the hard copies," Mr. Miner said. "They'll be something kids can page through years from now."
Mr. Vesilind hopes that one message those future generations will get is that the town took in a poor immigrant boy with no English and gave him a chance -- and he made something of himself.
"People will come who don't have advantages" like strong families which encourage education, as his did. "People will come who don't look mainstream," as he did, being a European Caucasian. "But maybe they just need a chance too."
He also hopes his career offers people the message that they can come from roots in Beaver and other small towns and do anything, go anywhere -- and that they can do it without losing their roots.
"You don't have to stay in Beaver, and you don't have to give it up, either," he said.