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Friday, December 06, 2002

Munch wasn't hungry this week.

Maybe you weren't either.

	Herbal Soul, 974 Pittsburgh St., Springdale, is open 7 a.m-7 p.m. Mon.-Fri. and 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sat. (724-275-7006).

Not after the food and drink orgy that was Thanksgiving.

Instead of going over the rivers and through the woods, Munch had the family come here, and actually cooked for them -- a feast that turned out pretty darn good.

The piece de resistance was the turkey.

It was a big and beautiful, fresh and free-range fowl that Munch's sister brought from Ohio. It weighed in at 23 pounds, which was perfect for the dozen diners, but too much for the ancient Westinghouse electric roaster Munch planned to roast it in. Or, almost too much.

The roaster itself, set up on the clothes dryer, almost caught fire at start up. Something wasn't right with the plug, which kept making sizzling sounds and at one point glowed orange and started smoking. But Munch was able to adjust it so it only buzzed quietly.

Then the overabundance of bird resisted the aluminum lid shutting tight. Munch solved that by levering it down using a blade-less hockey stick wedged under the laundry cabinet and weighed down at the other end by a sister's cosmetic bag.

Voila.

Don't try to impress Munch with the turkey you deep-fried or cooked on the grill.

The turkey wasn't stuffed but Munch still was by Monday, when it was time to get back to work -- that is, get back to eating.

You know how some parents get their babies to fall asleep by taking them for a drive? That's also a sure-fire way to wake up the appetite, and so driving Munch went.

Pulled up right around lunch time at a brand-new place in Springdale that needed to be checked out: Herbal Soul.

From what Munch had heard, it was some sort of vegetarian soul food joint, but this former house beside a picket-fenced florist's shop didn't look that funky. Didn't look open, actually, with a plastic banner that still prefaced "Coming soon."

But it's been open for a couple of weeks, and two of the 10 tables were occupied as Munch settled into one in a corner. The room obviously was newly renovated -- open and airy, done in non-tones of beige and white, and decorated with wreaths, dried flowers and candles. Lots of light came in through lots of windows, in which hung panels of stained glass.

One back corner looked like a little shop, stocked with teas and other herbal products, which explained the name and the feminine vibe.

The menu the female server brought was as small as the ones posted on the wall: Just one page with breakfasts on one side and on the other, salads, sandwiches and soups. But the food looked to be real (apple strudel French toast) and the prices small-town (French toast for $2.25, and 50-cent coffee with free refills!).

Munch didn't even consider the grilled turkey breast ($4.50) or turkey burger ($3.50), but rather ordered a "vegetarian hero" ($4) as well as a cup of the lovely sounding soup that two ladies across the room were having: chickpea and spinach. Munch also decided to try a pot of herbal tea, peppermint ($1).

The server was the nicest, most motherly lady you can imagine and, it turned out, the owner of this new eatery.

"Tell me if you like this soup," she said.

"Would you like some oyster crackers with that?"

"I ran out of filtered water so I had to go downstairs for more. I hope you don't think I forgot about you."

Munch felt like the two good ol' boys having burgers who, when she asked, "Can I get you guys anything?" replied, "No. We're happy."

It's a quirky but quintessentially Pittsburgh place on Pittsburgh Street to which Munch is looking forward to returning for breakfast. It also seems like a perfect place for ladies who lunch to take a break from holiday shopping, and then do some holiday shopping (Munch did).

Munch couldn't resist ordering one of the pretty puff pastries from the pastry case. The woman kindly wrapped it so Munch could bring it back to the office.

And give it to someone else.